The áo dài, the traditional dress of Vietnam, has a rich and diverse history. Its predecessor was the áo giao l?nh, a cross-collared robe commonly worn before the 17th century. In 1744, Lord Nguy?n Phúc Khoát of the southern region (?àng Trong) issued a dress code requiring both men and women to wear trousers and a buttoned-front tunic, distinguishing it from the clothing in the northern region (?àng Ngoài). This marked the early development of the traditional áo dài.
By the 19th and early 20th centuries, the áo ng? thân (five-panel tunic) became popular, especially among the aristocracy. This garment had five fabric panels symbolizing the wearer’s parents and themselves. In the 1930s, designer Nguy?n Cát T??ng, along with other Hanoi artists, modernized the áo ng? thân, creating a more form-fitting version inspired by Parisian fashion. This design quickly gained popularity and became a symbol of Vietnamese women.
Today, the áo dài remains an important part of Vietnamese culture, worn on festive occasions, significant events, and in educational settings. The combination of tradition and modernity has helped the áo dài maintain its appeal, making it a unique symbol of Vietnamese identity.
Aside from Áo dài, traditional garments like the áo t? thân, áo bà ba, áo chàm, and áo Nh?t Bình hold deep historical and cultural significance in Vietnam.
Áo T? Thân
Emerging in ancient times, the áo t? thân was the traditional attire of women in Northern Vietnam. Its design consists of four panels, symbolizing the four parents (t? thân ph? m?u—the wearer’s biological parents and in-laws), reflecting respect for family values. It was often worn with a bodice (y?m), a long skirt, and a sash, highlighting the elegance and simplicity of Vietnamese women.
Áo Bà Ba
Common in Southern Vietnam, the áo bà ba features a simple design with a buttoned front running from the collar to the waist. It is typically made from soft fabrics such as silk, ensuring comfort. This attire embodies the modesty and practicality of the people in the Mekong Delta. Today, it remains popular during festivals and cultural events.
Áo Chàm
The áo chàm is the traditional clothing of several ethnic minorities in Northern Vietnam. Dyed using indigo plants, it has a signature deep blue color. Its simple design, often without intricate patterns, reflects the humility and sincerity of ethnic communities. Due to its labor-intensive production process, the áo chàm has become rarer in modern daily life.
Áo Nh?t Bình
Originating from the Nguy?n dynasty, the áo Nh?t Bình was a court garment worn by royal and aristocratic women. It features a straight, parallel collar (??i khâm) with exquisitely embroidered patterns. When fastened with decorative ties, the collar forms a large “Nh?t” (sun) shape, inspiring its name, Nh?t Bình. After 1945, this attire became more accessible and was commonly chosen as a ceremonial outfit, especially for weddings in Hu?.
These traditional garments not only reflect the cultural heritage of Vietnam but also serve as symbols of national identity throughout history.
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